The history of Ikat weave

Ikat is a style of weaving that uses a resist dying process, similar to tie-dye, and is the most widely distributed resist weave method in South-East Asia. The name 'ikat' derived from the Indonesian word 'mengikat'; it involves binding the resist material at intervals around the yarn. The resist material may be tied to either the warp or the weft before the threads are woven to create a pattern or design. A striped burial cloth is thought to be the earliest example of an ikat cloth, dating from the fourteenth century.

Traditionally Ikat colours were dependant on what dyes were available in different regions, today Ikat fabrics are often brightly coloured and applied to fashion, interiors and installation art. Ikat cloth can be resist dyed on either the warp or weft yarns.

                                                A video showing the process of resist dye.

Warp  ikats are most commonly woven on a continuous warp in the remote regions of archipelago, where older forms of traditional technology are still  used. Different regions may use different materials and methods in preparing warp ikat, but the basic principles remain the same. Whilst the Javanese make warp ikat textiles for the tourist industry using factory made cotton and synthetic yarns, the Philippines use banana-plant fibres instead.

Ikat cloth being woven on a loom
http://travelswithanineyearold.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/06/Bajawa-Ikat-Weaving.jpg

Warp yarns being grouped together before
the dye is applied.

http://bear-ears.blogspot.com/2011_04_01_archive.htm 

Dyers do not usually plan their weave designs; though outlines are occasionally made as guidance. Today  designs are prepared on graph paper, though in the past palm leaf lattice and bamboo were used. 'According to Marie J. Adams (1971), high-born women in Sumba jealously guarded access to the best pattern guides until well into the twentieth century.' Once a template pattern is made, the warp yarns are grouped together using grasses and coconut or banana leaves. The resist material is applied to the warp yarns, then woven in a tabby weave. The art of dying with traditional materials and methods can be unpredictable, and some dyers and weavers host special rituals in order to ensure their success. It is said that Roti spirits dip their hands and breasts into the dye-bath, 'depriving the dye of its effectiveness', other regions forbid pregnant women near the dye bath.

Ikat warp yarns before woven

backstrapweaving.wordpress.com

Unlike warp Ikat, the weft ikat method is associated with 'court based societies' rather than small cultures of the more remote regions. Some of the finest weft ikat cloths are produced in South Sumatra, where the method is often combined with other decorative techniques.The process involved is much the same as warp ikat weave; today, however,most weft ikat cloths are woven in small factories in Sumatra. As means of production have changed, so has the division of labour based on gender. Tasks such as tying and dyeing, which were traditionally completed by women, are now done by men, though weaving remains a predominately female occupation.

Traditional costume for wedding and Buddhist celebrations, woven suing weft ikat
moolmit.com

Bibliography:
backstrapweaving.wordpress.com
http://bear-ears.blogspot.com/2011_04_01_archive.htm
moolmit.com
http://travelswithanineyearold.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/06/Bajawa-Ikat-Weaving.jpg
youtube.com

'The Complete Taj Mahal', Ebba Koch, 2006, Thames and Hudson
'Indian Textiles', John Gillow and Nicholas Barnard, Thames and Hudson
'Indonesian Textiles', Michael Hitchcock
'The Sari', Mukulika Banerjee and Daniel Miller
'The Victorian and Albert Colour Books, Ikats'
'Textiles and Fashion, Basics fashion Design', Jenny Udale, 2008.