Research Overview

Ikat weave began amongst a small community of women, using basic techniques and relying on individual region resources; therefore ikat textiles can reveal a lot of historical evidence into societies and lifestyles. Women would use the weave to construct necessities such as baskets and clothing, it soon evolved into small businesses between clusters of women in the Middle East seeking to earn a little extra income by selling the cloth to tourists; the ikat weave has since been applied across fashion and interior design across the globe. Having had a go at creating my very own ikat weave by tie-dying my warp and setting up on the loom, I have found its a very involved process and there is a great element of surprise and fascination as a pattern soon comes together created by dip dying the yarn. The ikat weave has become iconic for the unique patterns and colours it can produce, and is now used in print deisgn, transferring bold inventive pattern to screen printing scarves and garments; such as scarf designer Alison Lousada. From my market reearch it has become evident that the ikat patterns are more commonly seen as a print and not a weave, particularly in  the fashion industry, this could possibly be because it is more commercially efficient to produce as a print rather than a weave, as the ikat weaving process is rather complicated and lengthy.
I have enjoyed researching the history of the ikat weave, and how a simple technique can produce such unique and iconic patterns that can be used to create future fashions.

                                              A video of 'Ikat Indonesia' clothing collection.

Contextualisation, Ikat fashion

From my recent market research in London, I noticed a wealth of inspiration from Ikat weaves visible across products in a broad range of shops. Osborne and Little had a collection of purple and gold Ikat inspired furnishings, whilst Anthropolgie stocked some exquisite Ikat patterned garments.

This simple shift dress has an Aztec vibe, woven in earthy Middle Eastern colours. A pull-over simplistic style and off-set design uses the iconic Ikat as a fashion statement; Anthroplogie's style team commented 'we love the bright geometric design and how it's placed impactfully off-centre' (anthroplogie.com, 08/02/2012). Ikat weave complements Anthropologie's bohemian aesthetic, and celebrates a largely female dominated weaving culture with all women across the globe. Anthroplogie have created a brand appreciating 'innovation, artfulness and good design' (anthropologie.com); which this ikat shift dress wholly represents.This dress was created as a collaboration with UK scarf designer Alison Lousada of Lousada Heyhoe.

Askew Ikat Shift,
Anthropologie

                          Askew Ikat shift dress, Anthroplogie

This dress was created as a collaboration with UK scarf designer Alison Lousada of Lousada Heyhoe.

Alison Lousada graduated form Brighton, and works as a print designer using traditional Ikat patterns. Lousada's scarves are inventive in colour, pattern and design; whilst combining her research in traditional textile cultures from her travels. 'Style Bubble' commented on the Lousada Heyhoe studio collection, 'we headed up to her loft-space studio where her accumulation of books, inspiration images and textiles go some way in explaining the unique mix which culminates in her work.  These artefacts travel around the world, through different cultures, artistic/craft-based techniques and all the references come together along with her own take on colour combinations, which she describes as ‘odd’ but to me are instant eye-candy. (Stylebubble.co.uk, November 2010). 

Images of Lousada's studio. Alison uses informative textile books alongside books, magazine clippings, fabric samples, childrens drawings, holiday photos and postcards to collate ideas and strengthen her design.

Alison combines freehand designing with digital programmes, this illustration could later be scanned and developed into Illustrator.

Lousada Heyhoe scarf,
www.offtherunway.com

                                                

Bibliography:

Anthropologie.com

Lousadaheyhoe.com

Offtherunway.com

Stylebubble.com

Contemporary influences of ikat weave

Ikat weave is now used across the globe, and applied across fashion, interiors and occasionally art installations.

Ikat is seen from season to season on the catwalk. Designers 'Sass and Bide' has used an abundance of ikat weaves and prints to accentuate the bohemian, earthy aesthetic of their Autumn/ Winter 2011/12 collection. “It immediately made me want to go somewhere far away and hot on holiday,” said Vogue’s fashion features writer Sarah Harris, noting the ikat prints – which embodied the aforementioned pieces - to be especially strong. “I love the prints, it was an elegant take on tribal.” (Vogue, Jessica Bumpus, 18/02/11). 

Sass and Bide Autumn/Winter 2011/12 collection
melbournesgpo.com

French regency chair in purple luce.
madeleneweinrib.com

Ikat is just as popular with interior designers. Painter and designer Madeline Weinrib applies her skill to  woven carpets and textiles. Her interior collections are recognised for their rich colour and opulent pattern, her designs are sourced form her travels and reinterpreting traditional techniques; such as the ikat weave. Her designs are popular with Osborne and Little and Designers Guild.


The traditional Indonesian weave technique remains popular today in fashion and interiors; whilst artist Astrid Krogh has created large scale optical woven art installations constructed using ikat weave methods. 'Ikat III', is a feather-light tapestry of paper yarn with organic patterns created in optical fibres. The tapestry is constructed using the ikat weave technique allowing for detailed colouring and immense precision in the weaving process; making it possible to create smooth transitional patterns, and allowing light to create its own patterns. The light is used as a imaginary dye, which continuously flows back and forth and create a 'magical effect pattern' (astridkrogh.com).

Astrid Krogh, Ikat III
designmiamiblog.com

Bibliography:
astridkrogh.com
designmiamiblog.com
designersguild.com
madeleneweinrib.com
melbournesgpo.com
osborneandlittle.com
vogue.com